Three days in
Pioneer Basin.

Pioneer Basin was a breathtaking, gorgeous setting for our first backpacking trip of the summer. We planned a three-day trip to give ourselves an entire day to explore the basin. The beauty and solitude did not disappoint. We started at the Rock Creek trailhead, where the popular Little Lakes Basin hike also begins.

Day 1: Over Mono Pass

We had been worried about snow this early in the season, but the 2025–26 snow year was low enough that most of it had melted by mid-June. Mono Pass had some snow, but not enough to need microspikes. At 12,000 feet, the pass reminds me of a desolate moonscape with nothing but bare rocks.

As we came down over the pass, the melting snow created puddles on the sandy soil, but it was easy enough to keep our feet dry.

The Golden Creek crossing was easy to navigate, with a moderate volume of water. It would have been a nice place to stop, but we had to keep going if we wanted to complete the 10-mile hike that day.

A detour

My husband was trailing behind a bit. As we approached a junction, I saw some hikers at the trail post a few yards ahead and down the hill, where the Pioneer Basin trail splits off. I kept walking to talk to the group.

Out of the corner of my eye, I suddenly saw a figure that looked a lot like my husband hiking off in the wrong direction. I realized he had taken the Fourth Recess Lake trail. I called out, but he didn’t hear me. I started to run after him. Although I had spent quite a bit of time waiting for him earlier, once he started down this trail, he got his second wind. No matter how fast I hiked or ran, I couldn’t catch a glimpse of him.

I began to second-guess my choice. What if that wasn’t him, but someone wearing a similar hat and sun shirt? What if he had caught up later and taken the other trail down Mono Creek instead? I kept going about half a mile until the trail ended at Fourth Recess Lake. There he was, standing in the meadow, watching the waterfall cascade down the cliffs on the other side of the lake. I was so happy to see him!

Back on track

Crisis averted, I let him know about the additional mile we had added to our trip, hoping he still had energy to continue to Pioneer Basin. He agreed we should go, as the lake, despite being beautiful, was quite buggy.

So we began the trek up to Pioneer Basin, with about 800 feet of elevation gain that felt like more since we were already tired. Once we hit Mud Lake, the final climb was slow going. I had originally hoped to reach the third lake, but by the time we glimpsed the first lake, I realized there was no reason to push him to hike any further on his dwindling reserves. We had already hiked over 10 miles with 2,500 feet of elevation gain.

I found a beautiful site on a knoll overlooking the lake, with a windbreak of pine trees positioned perfectly to block the forecasted gusty winds.

My husband lay down on his foam pad to rest while I set up the tent, filtered water, and cooked dinner.

After that rest, he felt better, and we enjoyed our dinner while watching the sun set behind Mount Hopkins. The clear blue water, with the massive peaks of the Fourth Recess beyond it, is a scene I won’t soon forget.

Day 2: A day in the basin

In the morning, I noticed fresh bear scat near a pond behind our campsite, but other than some curious ground squirrels, we did not have any animal visitors. Throughout the day, we explored Pioneer Basin, walking around the second lake and Lake 10862.

At Lake 10862, we saw a couple with a dog from a distance—the first human beings we encountered in the basin. We ate lunch there, and I got in the water at a sandy beach at the northwest corner of the lake.

After a refreshing dunk, we continued our exploration along the inlet creek up to Lake 11026.

From there, we climbed over to the highest lake. We filtered water and then set our sights on Stanford Col. The climb up was easier than I expected.

The most difficult part was navigating through krummholz; little to no scrambling was needed. Once at the top, we enjoyed the view in both directions and ate a snack next to the prickly alpine plants.

The highest lake was sparkling in the sun as we climbed down.

On the way down, we saw two other people hiking around Lake 10862. We talked to the couple with the dog we had seen earlier, and then hiked back to our campsite. It was so hidden that I hiked past it before turning around and realizing I had missed it. Although another group of three passed by in the evening, we were the only people at the lake again that night.

Day 3: One last look

We got up early the next morning to start the hike back out over Mono Pass. The peaks of Fourth Recess were reflected in the still waters of the lake, creating a peaceful scene that exemplified the contrasts and colors of the basin.

This time we avoided any detours and made good time, completing the nine miles over Mono Pass in just under six hours.

After that, we sat in the car for a five-hour drive without stopping. It was probably a mistake, as our legs were quite stiff when we got home!

Overall, the trip was one of my favorites ever. I am very enthusiastic about another similar trip next year, and I think my husband can be coaxed into joining. The solitude and unforgettable views were more than enough to outweigh the difficulty of the trek.

Before we left, I took the photo of lupines by the lake while I was getting water.

The water was still and calm, except for a few fish jumping. The flowers, combined with the stunning backdrop, created a collage of color and light that can’t truly be conveyed through a photograph. I was sad to leave, but I hope to be back soon!